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Big name, big German classics

The maker of Black Tower, Reh Kendermann corporation surprised the wine trade recently with a show of some its fine rieslings

Although German wine corporation Reh Kendermann will be forever associated with Black Tower, Wines of Germany recently staged a tasting just to prove that big brand names can produce something special when they have a mind to. Representative Holger Erdmann showed three rieslings, all under the Kendermann name but coming from different classic regions.

Fine and elegant, Dry Riesling Schiefer 2007 is from Mosel, and while not over flowery on the nose, has clean, long intensity on the palate and some ageing capacity. Dry Rielsing Kalkstein 2007, from the warmer Pfalz district, is a noticeably broader wine, with some tropical fruit notes and plenty of balancing acidity; though good to drink now, it might just repay the laying down of an extra bottle or two. Finally, Dry Riesling Roter Hang 2007, from Rheinhessen, had ripe green and yellow fruit aromas, plump yellow apple flavours, good length, and a slightly creamy fruit finish.

New to Gilbeys, Lingenfelder Vineyard Creatures Hare Label Gewurztraminer 2005 was also on show. Set to retail at around E12.99, this will please gewurzt fans who find the variety always quite pricy; loads of typical rosewater, spice and apricot flavour along with well balanced acidity. Lingenfelder Riesling Spaetlaese Goldberg Halbtrocken 2004 was very respectable and elegant, and nicely priced, too, at €14.99, but I felt it was a relatively young drinking riesling and that, for sheer value, the gewurztraminer beat it hands down.

I thought Lingenfelder scored better with a Vineyard Creatures Bird Riesling 2007 from Rheinhessen, which was in the ripe green fruit style typical of the region, and had decent concentration and length. The range rounded things out with Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslaese 2005; this was a fine dessert wine with gorgeous sweet apple and marmalade flavours, and perfectly balanced acidity. Simply delicious, how is it we can’t persuade customers to drink more of this kind of stuff?

For more information on Reh Kendermann wines email Erdmann at holger.erdmann@winesofgermany.ie or phone Richard Jones on +44 1295 261 144. For Lingerfelder wines email lynne.coyle@gilbeys.ie or phone Lynne Coyle on 01 4292255.

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